March 4, 2009

Mumbai (Bombay)

Across the bay from Mumbai is the island of Elephanta. We crossed the water by boat, docked at the island, walked the long walkway, climbed the many steps to the Elephanta Caves to discover their sculptures and the stories, mythology, and spiritual and psychological wisdom they portray. The Sacred Sites book is a fine guide. We go slowly, taking in. The sculptures are in pairs – Shiva and Paravati in their mountain abode at Kailasa where all is well opposite Ravana Shaking the foundations of Mt. Kailasa; Shiva as the master yogi seated still and calm in meditation paired with Shiva dancing the universe, still centered while in the ceaseless flow of life; then the idyllic marriage of Shiva and Paravati paired with the wrathful Shiva striking out against evil. There is the three-faced Shiva: destroyer, creator, and balanced one. The last sculpture is a powerful image of Shiva as androgyne, half-male, half-female, as an image of the possibility of harmony, integration, and wholeness. So difficult it is for us to capture in words the power of this place and our journey to it across the water.

We have been fortunate to share meals with the relatives of friends, to experience daily life of some people living in Mumbai. We have experienced powerful pilgrimages to grave sites and birth places.

There is a man we passed on the streets several times each day. His legs are permanently around his shoulders and he asks for money. We talked with our friends of our awkwardness at seeing him. Our friend asked for our leftovers from a restaurant. As we walked by the man, she bent down and their eyes met. She asked if he would like some food. He smiled and said, “Yes, thank you.” There was something so powerful about their engagement in real human interaction and the sharing of food. The next times we saw him we all could greet one another.

Pune

We traveled by train to Pune. We had plans to stay at Maher, homes for abandoned children and women. We didn’t know how we would find and recognize Sister Lucy who said she would meet us at the rail station. Sisters Lucy and Monju came right into our train car, embraced us with hugs, scooped us up, and loaded us and our luggage into their jeep. We traveled through Pune to outside the city to a rural area. We arrived at Maher at 9:30 at night and received a warm welcome by the community of young children, teens, and staff, 240 children. They clapped a chant of welcome, sang “Happy Welcome, dear Uncle and Auntie,” and “Glad to see you, very, very glad.” They sang with gestures, “Hello, Hello, How are you?” Sister Lucy invited us to light branches on their lamp of light. A young woman stepped forward holding a tray of flowers and spice with a lit candle in the center. Everyone sang a Hindu chant as she circled the tray around us and then painted third eyes on our foreheads. Garlands of marigolds were placed around our necks. The young children then ran forward, “Good evening, Auntie. Good evening, Uncle. How are you? What is your name? What country? My name is….”

After the welcome we were served a healthy, delicious dinner. We ate with the staff outside, away from the city, away from the traffic, under the stars. Sister Lucy told us her story of the beginning of Maher. She is a Catholic sister. A woman being battered came to her for help. She listened compassionately and then sent the woman home, asking her to return the next day. In the night the woman was set on fire by her husband. The woman died. Sister Lucy knew she couldn’t just close herself off in the safety of the convent. She had to do something. Twelve years later there are 20 some homes.

Sister Lucy saw the barriers religions and castes have made, and she envisioned a home where all faiths are honored, all major celebrations marked, and where all are welcome.
The Maher banner has symbols of all the major world religions and scriptures from them are on display. She wanted all the prayers to be inclusive, and so they are.

We were shown our simple, clean, small quarters with a pit toilet and Indian bath down the hall. The water and electricity supply is sporadic, and we felt so comfortable.

We have so much to learn from this community, from these people. The women and children seem comfortable, confident, their faces beautiful and open. We visited many of the homes, including homes for aging women, women with mental disabilities. We met women who had been widowed and abandoned by their families, women who had been raped repeatedly and rejected by their families, women who had lived in the city public toilets, women who were unmarried and pregnant. Many of the women, who come for refuge, find healing and are trained to become house mothers or cooks at the homes. The buildings are all so basic, simple, and plain. There is so much joy and laughter. They show one another and us so much respect.

At each home we visited, we received their same welcome ritual. We were offered tea and shared meals with the communities. The hospitality they show touched our hearts.

We joined the children for their 5:30 am yoga and meditation. All these young children and teenagers sit quietly on the ground together before the sun has risen. Afterwards they sweep the grounds, wash their own clothes and bodies. At 7:00 am the youth have a one hour Indian dance class before going to school. There are prayers in the evening. On the weekend they have tabla drumming classes and singing.

A volunteer from Holland does art with them. She is also translating Dutch picture books into English and she invited us to edit the stories. We were glad to give a little something back to this wonderful place of healing and hope.

Our last night at Maher, everyone sat in circles on the ground. One of the young people prayed for our safety, for our families, and our community. Bill said that in our community we all join hands. Everyone took hands. He said, “We join hands with one another to remind ourselves that we are all connected to everyone around India, all around the world, that we need one another and that we are one family.” Barbara expressed our gratitude and prayers for their safety, well being and peace. We had purchased bags and bags of grapes for a special treat for the children. Each child came up to us to receive a bunch of grapes as a ritual of the giving and receiving among us.

The next morning as we left, the children sang a goodbye song and kissed us on both of our cheeks.

Kolkata (Calcutta)

We traveled from Pune to Kolkata where we are fortunate to stay with the family of friends. They too have so graciously welcomed and included us. Their home is in the Muslim area of Kolkata and the 5:00 call to prayer wakes us to a time of meditation. As the calls to prayer happen throughout the day, we take them as moments to pause.

Here in Kolkata we have had a meal in the home of a couple we met at the ashram in Puducherry (Pondicherry). We lost their contact information and through many steps and helpful people, we were able to connect. They guided us through the Ramakrishna and
Vivekananda center and temple. These two religious leaders taught religious unity.

We also had the experience of following a dignified, lovely 74 year old man as he led us on a winding journey with twists and turns and the help of many people along the way to the humble shrine of a beloved Sufi saint.

So much of this journey feels like a dream, mythic, out of our collective human consciousness. We are experiencing so much. There is so much to say and not enough words.

We are ever grateful for your love and support.

Barbara and Bill